Ushuaia

Took a deserved rest day back in Puerto Natales following my Torres del Paine expedition and then got a bus down to Ushuaia. Had previously decided not to go as it's a long and boring bus ride down there (12 hours), but was persuaded by some other backpackers that is was worthwhile (end of the world, when will you ever go there again, blah blah blah...) So I went. The bus ride was indeed long and boring and for a large chunk of it over crappy gravel roads. Had a bit of excitement when our bus driver took us off road and ploughed into deep mud on the verge. Eventually we got towed out by a lorry.

Stranded in la pampa

My first day in Ushuaia really felt like I had just gone to tick the "I've been to the end of the world box". Woop.
There's a glacier (or bit of ice at least) above the city you can walk up to. Coming to that off the back of Glacier Gray in Torres del Paine felt like a complete waste of time. There was a nice view of the city however and all the trees in their autumnal colours were very pretty. And Ushuaia is in a beautiful location; on the coast, surrounded by small mountains and lots of trees.

I also got into Couchsurfing for the first time. Spent my first night in a hostel and then moved in with the very friendly and generous Oscar for the next 3 nights. Tiny apartment but Oscar worked evening shifts so had the place to myself to cook dinner, enjoy a bottle of wine and relax for a bit. Was great to be out of a hostel! Thought I'd be able to catch up on lots of sleep too but Oscars working hours put paid to that (and the bottle or two of wine we seemed to end up sharing every night...)

My second day I went on a day trip into the national park for a beautiful hike up Mount Guanaco, going up through the forest and rewarded with a stunning panorama of the area from the top. The fantastic weather on the day really brought out all the reds and oranges of the surrounding forestry and it made for quite a site.

Argentina is expensive (or at least Patagonian Argentina) - even with the blue dollar rate. Food is expensive (European prices if not higher), bus travel is extortionate, entrance fees are high. My day trip to the national park cost me 340 pesos (£22) for the entrance fee and a 40 minute bus ride. (Alright, £20 doesn't seem that much... but just to go for a walk in a park?!)

Ushuaia is extremely touristy but also interesting for all its anti British propaganda and Malvinas Islands info (Ushuaia is the capital of the Malvinas if you didn't know). The tourist information for example had a whole shelf of leaflets explaining exactly why the Malvinas Islands should clearly belong to Argentina. Doesn't seem to be any personal animosity towards Brits however and the Argentinians seem like a very friendly bunch; very similar to Italians in their antics.

Was raining the next day so spent the day trying to catch up on this blog and upload photos, all of which takes a loooong time. Could really do with a laptop.