Here's my blow by blow account of tackling the Huayhuash circuit. Thankfully I have some photos to illustrate my account as I left my memory card in a hostel in Santiago a few days after. Manage to retrieve a few however and the rest are hopefully winging their way back to England now.
Day 1 - Thurs 13 Aug
Day 1 - Thurs 13 Aug
I was up late getting ready after an adventurous days paragliding yesterday, so only grabbed a few hours of broken sleep before getting up at 4 to get a bus at 5. All went smoothly though. Had time for some breakfast in Chinchero and then we headed up towards the mountains where the bus finished in Pocpa, 5 hours from Huaraz. The start of the Huayhuash circuit was further up the road but this is as far as public transport gets you. Only took 3.5 hours walking though to reach the first camp. Although just following the dirt road, up past a 1MW hydroelectric plant, it was an enjoyable walk, passing by numerous shepherds and shepherdess tending their cows and sheep.
The shepherds seem quite friendly and give a wave and a hello. Others I passed on the road however were distinctly indifferent, barely even acknowledging my greetings. Helped push an old woman over a wall (her request!) on her mission to get fire wood.
I acquired a canine friend on the way who accompanied me all the way to camp and looked like he was ready to stay the night here. Seems to have disappeared now it's dark though. Had a long lunch down by the river and a nice snooze in the sunshine.
It started to threaten rain in the late afternoon and followed through soon after I reached camp. I had just enough time to get my little tent up and take shelter. Cleared out again an hour later and the tops of the mountains glowed pink as the light started to fade.
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| My friend for the day |
An old kiwi couple are doing the trek independently too, and there are 2 big groups starting out today.
About 13km and 680m altitude gain today, camping at 4160m. It's getting cold!
Day 2
Last night was cold but I was just about warm enough in a my clothes and -15 down sleeping bag. It was quite reassuring to see there'd been a hard frost when I got up. It was genuinely cold!
Didn't get up till 7.30 and was the last one to leave camp at about 9. An easy day today though. 500m ascent to start with, with a beautiful view at the top of the pass looking out at the wide open valley on the other side. Couple of Cóndor flybys too. Took the direct route to the next camp spot, staying high rather than following the valley around, eventually dropping down to a lake overlooked by the majestic, glaciated Nev. Jirishanca and it's neighbouring peaks. I'd somewhat unintentionally walked to the far side of the lake, not realising the official camp spot was on the other side. After finding a perfect spot next a stream with a mountain view from my porch I was settled for the day however. Only walked about 10 km and arrived here at 13.30, with almost an hours break at the top.
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| Top of the first pass |
Not feeling right as rain though annoyingly. Not really ill but somethings up, I keep getting acidic belches and heartburn. Can't think what would have caused it.
Weather has followed a similar pattern to yesterday. Lovely day, then a bit of rain (hail today) around 4. Donkeys and cows for company tonight. Chatted to the 2 other groups on my way. A big German family and some Italians. When most people are on tours everyone's always impressed when you do it alone!
Day 3
Last night seemed to go on forever. Had a big hail storm followed by rain. Went to sleep around 7 when it got dark but kept waking up with this damn heartburn. And when you go to sleep at 7, there's a lot of hours until it gets light again! I was up at 6. 30 and on my way by 8. Took me an hour to walk back up the valley and then 2 more to reach the high pass of the day at 4630m, an ascent of 400m. Was feeling pretty weary today and it took me a while to find my stride. And my pack felt heavy. Whatever's up with me has made me lose my appetite so I'm not eating enough food to lighten my pack!
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| The easy option |
As you come out the other end of the valley, you're presented with the heart of the Huayhuash mountains, with a chain of mighty glacier clad peaks stretching out in front of you. The tops were all shrouded in cloud but got a few fleeting glimpses of their full majesty.
The rock formations here, and the length of the Andes, are continually impressive. The movement in the rocks is so vivid you can practically see the tectonic upheaval taking place before your eyes.
The tour groups only seem to walk for about 4 hours a day and this was their camp next to Lago Carhuacocha. Not a bad spot by any means, looking down the lake with the towering mountains beyond. I took leave of the standard route at this point and headed towards the mountains to skirt around the steep valley at their base.
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| First glimpse of the big peaks |
Passed by a very pretty little community at the foot of the mountains (5 stone houses little) and as is the norm here an old woman appeared next to me to charge me the tourist tax for passing through. This one was the most expensive yet - 25 soles! The clouds lifted a little and the sun broke though, just after I'd passed the pueblo, so I ditched my bag and backtracked to get some photos of the peaks while I could. I'm sure I was watched the whole time and I could see someone scuttling about on the hillside opposite, without seemingly doing much. Probably just wondering what the hell I was doing...
After the pueblo you enter a narrow pass and with the mountains looming above you it starts to feel a lot wilder and remote and you get the sense of entering into the big stuff. This is where Touching the Void took place and where I'm now camped, on the shore of lago Siula, is where (I think) they had their basecamp. The mountain in question, Nev Siula Grande (6344m) has so far remained resolutely in the clouds but there is no doubting the serious challenge these summits present. Maybe next time then!
Saw a few vicuñas up on the hillside today and a large squirrel type animal hopping over the rocks. And lots of noisy ice falls tumbling from the glaciers including one massive one that sent a huge cloud of ice up in the air.
18km today. Camp is at 4310m.
Day 4
The clouds slowly cleared this morning to leave a stunning array of jagged peaks, sharp ridge lines and glaciers falling off the steep sides. With such a beautiful site to leave behind it took me a while to drag myself away and I didn't start my long ascent out of the valley until 8.45.
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| Lago Siula |
Maybe it's the lingering effects of my San Pedro experience but everywhere I look now I keep seeing faces or figures in the rocks. It's fun!
After hiking up to the edge of the last glacial lagoon I didn't check the map properly and backtrack to find the path. I followed a few cattle tracks but soon realised I was off the path when I needed to start climbing to reach the pass. I knew where I needed to go so opted for a steep scramble up a tufted grassy slope rather than backtracking. It wasn't the greatest shortcut and proved to be a hard, tiring slog upwards. I was delighted when I finally rejoined the path and didn't take me long after to reach the summit of the pass at 4830m. And what a view from the top! The clouds sadly didn't lift but the panoramic view of the open valley stretching out on one side and the snowy, spiky mountains on the other was awesome. I hung around at the top for almost an hour, enjoying the vista and hoping the clouds would lift. They were, but very slowly, but I did get a few glimpses of the highest summits, enough to get an appreciation of how big they really are.
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| Top of the pass |
I stopped for lunch overlooking Huayhuash, where all the caravans were setting up camp, and then pressed on to Vigonga and the enticement of a hot spring. I passed through the camp unnoticed and started the climb up the other side, thinking I may have got away without paying the pueblo tax. Out the corner of my eye however I noticed someone running in my direction and heard a few faint whistles. Somewhat mischievously I thought I would test their resolve, and pretending not to notice, pushed on up the slope. They were determined though! I stopped when a guy eventually got within shouting distance and he caught up with me, exhausted after running up the path. Had a friendly chat, paid my dues and was soon on my way again.
Up and over my second pass of the day and I was greeted by another great, sweeping valley with jagged, snowy peaks on the far side and one giant blancmange of a glacier, oozing it's way down from its giant rounded top. Looks like an awesome descent for a snowboard.
I arrived at Agua Terminal at about 17.30, my first proper days hiking. Only one tour group here and the kiwi couple John and Jocylyn I'd set out with. I set up my camp and then headed straight for the baths.
What a treat the thermal bath turned out to be...
A good hike, mountains, spectacular views, and to watch the stars come out, relaxing in a hot spring with a beer... such a beautiful moment, sealed with a long bright shooting star burning across the sky. This is what makes me HAPPY.
3 pools, one warm, one hot and one small sulphurous hot pool. There was even some soap on hand to have a wash. And all to myself.
Hiked about 20km today with about 900m of ascent.
Day 5
My digestive tract seems to have got back to some semblance of normality and I've finally started to make some headway into the massive bag of nuts I've been lugging around.
Another high pass (4950m), another spectacular view at the top. The pass taking you right past a beautiful glacier with all its seracs there to admire right in front of you. The valley ahead stained with reds and orange and a long, sharp, knife edge ridge stretching away to the north (which as it turns out is the ridge of mighty 6000m peaks, at the heart of the Huayhuash).
The path dropped back down into the valley and I took the secondary route again, up the San Antonio pass, with a steep, gruelling climb of 500m up to 5020m.
The path dropped back down into the valley and I took the secondary route again, up the San Antonio pass, with a steep, gruelling climb of 500m up to 5020m.
But my God, the view from the top practically blew my mind! Such a steep conical valley, dominated by the mighty ridge on one side, and so many different colours blended in the rock. One of the most incredible sights I've ever seen.
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| The picture doesn't do it justice |
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| I climbed up through the pass on the left |
I scrambled up to the nearby summit (5079m) to get the full panoramic glory of the view, and then settled down for a well deserved and delicious lunch of good cheese with tortillas. Hmmm hmmmm.
The climb up was quite long and steep but the drop down the other side was much longer and steeper, descending back down to 4260m. It was a hard dusty descent, but once down in the valley I carried on past the official campsite and headed up towards Lago Juraucocha for another camp with a glacier view, at 4343m.
Went for a little wander in the early evening and was treated to a gorgeous sky of pink clouds, rolling off the glaciers, as the sun set somewhere beyond my horizon. And as I ate my dinner as darkness fell a beautiful sliver of a new moon rose above the mountain.
What a wondrous thing... to be able to gaze up at the stars, in the presence of such grand Apu's, and contemplate the many facets of life.
About 13 or 14 km today, 1000m of ascent.
Day 6
My first day of truly good weather. I hid my heavy pack and ambled up the valley Quebrada Sharapocha as the early sunlight slowly filled the valley. I rock hopped my way across the glacial boulder field and found myself at the outlet of laguna Santa Rosa, under the 6127m shadow of Nev. Sarapo.
A lovely sunny morning, a beautiful lagoon under the vertical face of a 6000m mountain and glacier. Time for a swim? Don't see why not.
I'm sat on the edge of laguna Sharapocha right now, gazing up at all 6500m of Nev. Yerupaja Sur (the highest mountain here, Nev. Yerupaja 6617m is hidden behind) and I'm thinking: Could this be the most beautiful mountain I've set eyes upon?
Well I can't think of any better right now so sure. Nev. Yerupaja Sur is the most beautiful mountain I've seen. Such an impressively steep south face and immense ridge line that stretches away in both directions.
Incroyable.
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| My beautiful mountain |
I think what probably makes the Huayhuash circuit feel extra special is that it's still relatively unknown (I didn't know about it until a few months ago) and there is really hardly anyone here. Rated by some as one of the world's greatest treks and I've camped for 3 nights alone with only mountains and glaciers for company (... and the ever present cattle and donkeys) and wandering around one of the most spectacular valleys on the trek I saw 3 other people. And this is peak season!
Lost 2 sets of nuts today. The first lot when I went swimming and the second lot fell out my stuff pocket somewhere on the trail.
After my casual morning soaking up the epic scenery and then some lunch, I didn't start the serious trekking until 1.30, which left a lot of ground to cover to get where I wanted to be that night. It took me 3 hours to get down the valley to the "big" town Huayllapa. The valley was relatively uninteresting but it was interesting to see the signs of human settlement again (terraces, a few fields) as you got closer to town. The town though drops right down to a lowly 3490m, which leaves a 1300m ascent up to the next pass. I wanted to make a start on it today so at 4.30 I started to climb, with my eye on a campsite about half way up the pass - only 700m height to gain...
By 6 I was starting to get a little tired and the light was starting to fade. I'd just got out of the steep sided valley however and out onto more open grasslands so I gave up on the campsite and searched around for a flat spot to pitch my tent. Wasn't too hard and I found a lovely spot near to a small stream and pitched up in the last of the light. The combination of finding the spot late on with a beautiful view down the valley and the openness of the hillside, I think it's one of my favourite camp spots so far. I ate my dinner under the light of the new moon and the glory of the starry sky.
I'm camped at 4125m so can't be far off the campsite I was aiming for.
My morning stroll up the valley was about 9km there and back, and then I hiked the 12km to Huayllapa and about another 4km past. So about 25km today. Dropped 750m and then climbed back up about 700m before I camped.
Day 7
As beautiful as my camp site was, it was a little exposed and cold last night. My pan of water I'd left outside had a good thick layer of ice this morning. I was glad when the first rays of sun finally hit me around 8. I thought I must have been pretty close to the official campsite and I was; it was only a 15 minute walk away.
I was a little tired today after yesterday's exertions so I had a fairly slow hike up the gradual ascent to make the remaining 700 odd metres to reach the pass. Another great view, this one much more understated however with the only snowy mountains off in the distance. From the pass you could just see the top of one of the 6000m peaks so wanting a better view I headed up to the nearby ridge to see what was what. The view was better but as i'd just climbed up the base of the small mountain Tapush, my thoughts soon wandered to the summit of said mountain...
It looked like a fairly straightforward scramble so I left my bag and off I went. Scree slopes to start with, which combined with the altitude made the going quite hard. I worked my way upwards though and after only one short section I needed to climb I skirted around the side and had a relatively easy scramble to the summit. My first solo 5000m peak! 5223m according to the map, 5236m according to my phones gps.
Could it be a first ascent? Highly unlikely but I made a cairn at the top to let the next person know it'd been conquered! The view was majestic, open valley to the west, another mountain chain in the distance to the north and the ridge of 6000m peaks to the east. And lots of red and orange in the rocks, bleeding into the lagoons and rivers.
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| Top of Tapush |
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| Up there somewhere |
I still had aspirations of hiking up to the glacier in my final valley so I set off after some lunch at a good pace. I caught up with the kiwi couple (who had been adopted by the Peruvian workers of a French group and had kindly provided a donkey for their gear) and the Italian I'd had a chat to in the beautiful valley the day before.
I really hadn't checked the map properly however and had missed the fact there was another high pass (4850m) to get over before dropping down to my final campsite Incahuain.
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| Another high pass... |
What a site the valley presented: a wide open valley with a big lake and the 6094m peak of Nev. Jirishanka dominating the head. A postcard finish to a tremendous trek, and nothing lost by not having the time to head further up the valley.
About 15km today + 4km up and down Tapush from the pass. 900m gained and 1200m lost over 2 passes, and 350m extra up and down Tapush.
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| Cheers |
Day 8
Today was just about getting to Llamac to catch the bus back to Huaraz at 11. Took me about 3.5 hours to cover the 12 odd km, with another pass of 300m to climb and then a 1000m descent down into the valley to reach Llamac. The path was dusty, rutted and rocky so not the nicest to try and rapidly descend down. I made it with 15 mins to spare but then found out the bus didn't leave till 11. 30 anyway.
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| The morning sun slowly fills the valley |
It's been an unforgettable trek. An area of such astounding natural beauty and stunning mountains. A perfect final journey with which to seal my South American adventure. Next time I'll have to climb some of these mountains...
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| Made it! |
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