What to do in Kathmandu

I had a pleasant if unexciting few days in Kuala Lumpur. Not a lot to do there other than shopping and eating so I enjoyed the latter and took things easy.

I was then up on the airways again and on to Nepal. My fifth country in as many weeks and arriving in Kathmandu I was, for the first time, feeling a bit travel weary. Too much travel and not enough action so looking forward to changing that with some much anticipated paragliding!

First off though I needed to get my Indian visa for the final leg of my trip and that meant at least a week around Kathmandu. I spent a few days wandering around the city. Durbar square has almost been reduced to an area of empty plinths, save for the piles of bricks on top, but the city itself is predominantly intact. The only obvious disruption to city life seems to be the replacing of flagstones in the streets. 

Where once a temple stood

Road works, plus the endless line of motorbikes that stream through the narrow alleys makes the streets pretty claustrophobic at time and the pollution horrendous [The pollution in Kathmandu is generally horrendous. Narrow streets, old vehicles, little emissions control and lots of traffic leave a gritty toxic atmosphere, hard not to breathe in as you traverse the streets.].

The old city is medieval, hectic and fun. Thamel, the tourist district, is hectic but not as much fun. Every body wants to sell you a tour, hashish or a tibetan singing bowl but it's generally good natured and the touts aren't too persistent.

Looking over Kathmandu from Monkey Temple

Pashupatinath was the most interesting site I visited: Nepals most important Hindu temple. You can't actually visit the temple (unless you're a Hindu) but it's where they burn the bodies of the dead on the river bank. A fascinating place to sit and watch, if a bit macabre prying on other people's funerals. 

There's lots going on. Bodies being bathed in the sacred water of the river before they're toasted, funeral pyres in roaring flames, smouldering ashes being brushed into the river and kids swimming. 

The place is full of sacred animals too: monkeys, goats and cows wandering around and lots of Saddhus sitting about charging tourists for a photo.

Had to pay for it

Evening prayer at Bhoudinath

My first attempt to escape the city was only partially successful. I hired a mountain bike and headed out to the hills north of Kathmandu with a semi-local Nepalese guy, Azul. It thankfully doesn't take long to escape the foul air of the city and we were soon climbing up on small tracks through the rice fields and small-holder farm land of the fertile Kathmandu valley.

I'd planned for a 2 day trip but 2 hours in my chain snapped, so that was that. The ride back down was still fun though and so was weaving through the traffic with a sling shot from Azul.

Kathmandu valley

I didn't stay long in Kathmandu though and went on a 3 day yoga retreat instead. A great choice. After 3 days I was physically supple again and mentally refreshed.

The day starts with a 6.30 cleansing of the sinuses with a nette pot, followed by an hour of praniyam (breathing exercises), an hour of yoga, and then breakfast. It's a tiring start to the day when you're not used to it but we then had the day to ourselves before another yoga session at 5.

The view from the retreat

I went for a few walks, to the local town and Nepals oldest Hindu temple Changu Narayan (still standing) - a beautiful walk through big pine tree forest and with lovely views out across the valley. The nearby town Sankhu was badly damaged by the earthquake and the destruction to people's homes and lives is clearly evident there.

walking to Sankhu

Life goes on in Sankhu