Sud América... Adiós!

My final night in Peru was in Lima and I had an alright night out in Miraflores, finishing up in the big club Gotica. I was promised techno (I at least hoped for an electronic beat) but it most definitely was not. What I got was south American RnB and salsa pop, with a crowd of Lima's affluent youth. I at least manage to categorically prove I can't dance salsa. 

Diego treated me to another delicious lunch the day after and then I flew down to Santiago in Chile. Just had a day there and a little wander around and then bade goodbye to South America and headed west, out and over the Pacific for the next leg of this grand adventure. 

A somewhat wintry Santiago

Into Bolivia via the Salar de Uyuni

There had been a storm a few days before I reached San Pedro de Atacama and a lot of snow up in the mountains, making the road into Bolivia impassable. It was clearing up but it was uncertain whether the border crossing would be open the next day for the Salar de Uyuni tours to get going again. I signed up anyway, hoping for the best, then hired a bike again and went for a great bike ride out to Devils Canyon before climbing up, though a tunnel and up onto the ridge line which took me back past the Valle de Muerta. The views out to the volcanoes strung along the horizon, now with a beautiful coating of white, were magnificent.

Devils Canyon

Back in San Pedro that evening I was told the border had opened and the 3 day tour was on. We left early (7am early) but didn't get very far as they'd closed the border until ice on the road had melted. We eventually got off around 10 in a convoy of tour jeeps and a few hours later had officially entered into Bolivia and the vast alien landscape of the alto plano, scattered with volcanoes, mountains and lagoons.

passport control

The first "attraction" on the tour was an area of bubbling mud pools and sulphuric geysers, and shortly after that we were relaxing in a natural thermal bath. Not for too long though. At 4000 odd metres staying in for longer than 20 minutes isn't recommended.

Our next and final stop for the day was a big deep red lagoon with flocks of feeding flamingoes.

We had time to wander around but as sunset approached our driver was keen to head to our nights accommodation. I wanted to at least stay until the sunset but our driver wasn't having any of it. He did however with a wry smile say I could walk back if I wanted and was then slightly taken aback when, delighted by the opportunity, I said yes, great! It wasn't that far (only about an hours walk) and easy enough to find given its the only habitation within walking distance. Matthias (a young Belgian guy) joined me for the hike and we had a good walk back as the sun set and the stars came out.

The rest of my group was made up of 4 friends from Melbourne travelling together: 3 ozzies and an English girl. Very Australian but fun enough for a few days.

Our accommodation was basic. Concrete beds, electricity (from a generator) until 9, and no heating. There was a small stove but they didn't light it for us - the tour group next door to us had a lit stove however so went and joined them for warmth. It was a seriously coooold night and up at 4000 odd metres I didn't sleep too well.

Day 2 we passed through some interesting rock formations, sculpted by the desert winds. and then more lagoons and lots of flamingoes.

 

We spent our second night in a salt hotel. Yep, a hotel made of salt. And quite well made actually, with salt tables, salt chairs, salt beds, all salt. No need to ask for the salt for dinner.

Nearby our hotel was a very interesting burial ground, where bodies had been entombed in tombs of lava rock. The bodies were mainly still intact and thrown into some amusing poses as they gazed out of their graves. I can't remember how old they were, but pretty sure it was in the thousands of years.

Our final day was the salar de Uyuni itself and we were up early to watch the sun rise from cactus island; a genuine island in the salt flat, only lacking in water. The sun rise was a breathtaking sight, with a beautiful change of light across the white expanse of the salt flat, with the giant cacti adding presence and immense shadows.

We took the ubiquitous perspective photos on the salt flat itself and then a few hours more driving got us to Uyuni.

Our last sight was the train graveyard, where all the trains that used to transport minerals and ore from Bolivia to Chile were left to rust.

First impressions of Uyuni were pretty grim; the outskirts a huge expanse of unfinished buildings. The centre was a bit more happening though and we enjoyed a few beers out in the sun before getting on a bus to Potosí.

Back to Chile

I left Argentina on Tues 12th June, and took a 9 hour bus ride up and over the Andes into Chile; an awesome route into the Atacama desert, passing through desolate plains and mountains, salt flats and crossing the border at 5000m.

Collecting salt

We arrived into San Pedro de Atacama at around 5pm. Going for a stroll after settling in the hostel I got a bit of a shock when engulfed by multitudes of tourists and tour companies. I wasn't prepared for how touristy it is but it's only a town of 2000 people but with probably the same number of tourists to match.

Fortunately though there are a few things you can do on your own and after spending the morning sorting out a few chores i hired a bike and pedalled off into the valle de muerta.... Death Valley. The main feature of death valley is a massive sand dune, popular for sand boarding. I had considered doing it but was put off after watching people make the long slog up the dune for a 1 minute ride back down!

Valle de Muerta

After death valley I cycled over to the much bigger Valle de Luna with its impressive ridges and rock formations.
I watched the sun set from the top of a small hill and while the sunset didnt offer much the red glow across the volcanic peaks on the horizon was lovely to see. The cycle back in the dark as the stars came out was great too so i had a quick turn around back in San Pedro and left town again on a star gazing tour. 

Valle de Luna

 

 

Our guide didn't offer too much insight beyond the names of what we were looking at but it was worth it just to be out in the dark to admire the night sky in all its glory. Great star gazing here due to the dry air and clear skies. We had a 12" Dobsonian telescope and looked at various galaxies, clusters (and other starry things!) and then the planets Jupiter and Saturn. All of which were mightily impressive.

Keen to get flying I spurned the rest of the many tours on offer and got on a bus go Iquique the next day.

Torres del Paine

Well I asked for PAINE and it duly delivered! For the first few days at least. Rain, wind, then snow and c-c-cold nights made the start a little harder than I´d anticipated; but then the sun came out and it all got a lot easier. I also found out the day before my hike that the back side of the full circuit officially closed on the 1st April, but that it was still (apparently) ok to do....

I kept a diary for my evenings entertainment. Here´s how the week panned out...

Day 1 - Camp Las Carretas

6 km in 1h50 (with strong headwind)

Weather ok - even some sunny spells - but the mountains ahead were shrouded in cloud. The scenery and weather is just like Scotland - with glaciers! They didn´t lie about the wind. Its windy.
Arrived at camp at 2pm so went for a wander and climbed the nearest small hillock. Lots of small bushes with very spikey leaves. A hare hopped past the cooking shed [all cooking has to be done in the designated cooking área] while I ate my dinner.

Day 2 - Camp Italiano

Las Carretas - Paine Grande, 10km, 2h30
Paine Grande - Italiano, 7.5km, 2h

Last night was COLD. Did not sleep well. My sleeping bag doesnt appear to be too warm. Given this is the lowest campsite, this is a concern. Im definitely underprepared for cold weather. I was cold in the evening, all night and all lunch. Being cold is demoralising. Rained a lot last night and early morning but the walk was ok - didnt leave until 10.20, arrived at Paine Grande at 12.50. Started out with Chelsea but she kept faffing so stopped waiting for her. 

Had lunch inside [at Regugio Paine Grande]; was sheltered but not warm. Being cold for so long and with shit weather to continue for atleast another day I was having doubts about my ability / preparedness for the full circuit. Set off at pace after lunch however and finally warmed up. 

Time to start covering more ground. Easy ambles are for warm weather. 8 days of cold doesnt appeal but 6 days is manageable and if Im always moving I´ll stay warm! Yesterday I never got warm (all day) so hopefully tonight will be better anyway. 

The route from Paine Grande to Italiano was pretty flat but boggy in places. Got some glimpes of Glacier Frances. The colour of the lakes is a beautiful turqouise blue.

Camp Torres tomorrow? hmmm....

Valley de Frances (4h, 10km). Italiano - Torres, 26km. 36km?

Chileno is possible! (only 31km).

Day 3 - Camp Refugio Torres
Last night it rained A LOT. The campsite was awash with new streams in the morning. Was warm enough but still couldnt sleep. Didnt get up till 8ish waitin for the rain to stop. Didnt look too promising but headed up into the valley Frances anyway in the hope of a glimpse of the view. Blizzarding on and off but quite sheltered in the trees. 

Got a view of the glacier at the 1st viewpoint and higher up entered into a beautiful winter wonderland amongst the trees. Think I got up to about 750m but then came out the trees and felt the full force of the howling wind and snow. Couldnt see to go on. Probably just as well as finding the path in the snow back down was tricky in places.

First sight of the glacier went a long way to maintain the thought the full circuit was still a good idea.

Had some pasta for lunch. Decamping in the wet sleet and cold was miserable but got a boost when I asked the ranger what the forecast was - much better!

Torres del Paine rocks

At a fast pace, pressed on to camp at Refugio Torres.
Los Cuernos, 1h10, 5km

Refugio Torres, 3h, 12km

Could have made it to Chileno but was drawn by the lure of the restaurant at Hotel Torres. Had some delicous Patagonian lamb and was entertained by the Royal Danish string and trombone quintet! Walking down to the restaurant, 2 pumas ambled by, hunting rabbits. Got a shock when I saw the first, only about 5m away. I think it had just pounced for a rabbit and we both saw each other at the same time, equally startled! They weren´t too concerned though. 

Puma #1

Day 4 - Camp Torres

SUN! Was definitely cold last night - ice on the ground this morning. Woke around 5 but sun didn´t rise until after 8. You appreciate good weather after the shit! Luxery campsite too: hot water, toilet paper, showers.

Lovely crisp air on the way up the mountain. Arrived at Camp Torres at 1pm (8km, 3 hours). Passed 2 woodpeckers going to town on trees only a few meters from the path. Big birds with bright red plummage - just like woody woodpecker.

Quite a few condors about too. Wasn´t sure what they were until one flew close by yesterday. Screw Galapagos - better wildlife here! 

Lots of snow up here. Camp is at 585m. Going to be cold tonight.... Luckily I went shopping this morning! Found a silk sleeping bag liner and a space blanket. Hopefully make the next few nights bearable.

Camp Torres

Noodles for lunch then headed up to the Mirador las Torres. 1 hr up, pretty slidey in the snow, clear view of the peaks. Beautiful with the snow and lake below.

shorts and tights: winning combo.

Back at 4 so went to explore the valley Ascencio (strictly forbidden). Easy marked trail to begin with but then hit a snowy boulder field. Could just pick out the small cairns in the snow but crossing the boulders was a little dodgy. Kept going until I eventually lost the path and had to give it up. Shoes are saturated.

Cooking area was full of kids. Apparently I don´t know how to use a gas stove. A young guy kindly told me "you can turn the gas down by turning that knob". Thanks! Don´t think I´d like it here in the peak season.

Early start tomorrow to catch the 3 Torres in the early morning glow. 

So many french here. 

Day 5 - Camp Seron

Hoy, escribo en espanol. Querria leventarse a las 6 pero en mi capullo, no escuche mi alarm y me desperte a las 7. Subi la montana en solo 30 minutos. El sol no aumenta hasta 9! Perro la vista fue bonito y estaba claro.

Las Torres in the morning sun

Hay mucha gente caminan hoy (ahora es soleado), entonces muchos "hola!". Mis zapatos estan mojado y ahora tengo ampollas :-(

Algunos condores volaron cerca de la sendero - muy bonito. 

Back to english...

Last night I was warm! Actually had to remove a layer. 

The snow is melting fast. Had lunch at the hotel then headed into the back circuit at 3.30. Immediately felt so different to the W. Quite flat terrain, opening out into a big valley and only saw a handful of people all day - so nice!

Had to take my shoes off to cross a stream so took the opportunity to have a quick dip in the river before the sun dissappeared. Really cold, but lovely! Took me a long time to warm up again. 

Passed 2 eagles perched in a tree near the path. Arrived at camp at 7, 2 other people here. 

Long day planned tomorrow, 29km. 

Base de las Torres (return) 2km 1hr

Camp Torres - Hotel, 8km, 2 hrs

Hotel - Camp Seron, 13km, 3.5hrs

Day 6 - Camp Dickson

Clear night with almost full moon and a hard frost. Last night was really cold! Tent was frozen.

Chilly start

 At checkpoint Coiron the Park Warden told us (me and an American couple) the pass was closed and we couldn´t do it, but he let us carry on to Camp Dickson for the night [apparently a girl died on the pass last year so the Park seem to be making a much more concerted effort to stop people doing it this year]. We were all agreed we´d just carry on to Los Perros (at the base of the pass).

I took a longer lunch than them and coming down to Dickson the Wardens were out so couldn´t sneak past. Damn! The American couple had got past un-noticed. Still, no way I´m not doing the pass having got this far, so breaking camp in the night to be on the way before the wardens are up. A german guy Lasse I camped with last night will join me. Shame not to make Los Perros tonight, made good time this morning (19km in 4.5 hours). Dickson is lovely however, near a big glacial lake with a huge glacier running down into at the far side. Beautiful sunny day today, not a cloud in the sky. Shame about the mosquitos.

Tomorrows plan: leave at 5, breakfast at Los Perros at 9, then tackle the pass.

Looking down at Camp Dickson

Day 7 - Wild camp, near Refugio Grey

Up and away by 5 and under the moonlight climbed up through the forest to Los Perros, arriving at 9. Was delighted to have a proper breakfast then! Few other people about when we arrived. A Slovak who did the pass yesterday and a German couple about to tackle it. The Americans had already left. Set off at 10 after a good hearty breakfast.

John Gardner Pass. Looks alright...

Really boggy to start with and then into the snow. Long climb up but not too steep, about 700m from Los Perros to the pass at 1200m. Snow was mostly firm so going was quite easy. Made it to the top in 2.5 hours. Lovely weather again and not very windy.

Looking back

As you go over the top, Glacier Grey appears in all its magnificence. A spectacular sight! Had a 5 star lunch at the top: soup, cheese, salami and even a coffee, with a view to match.

Coming down was much steeper but with awesome views all the way. The glacier is huge. 2 hours to get down to Passo. Sky hazed over in the afternoon, weather is changing again!

Didn´t want to face the crowds at Refugio Grey so wild camped at an old campsite a few kms away. Nice dinner by a small waterfall. 

Sun halo

Day 8 - The End. 

Up early and breakfasted at the viewpoint with a spectacular view out over the glaciar. Then hightailed the 10km down the valley to make the catamaran out of here at 12.30.

As I came back round the front of the Paine massive I saw it for the first time in all its glory and cloud free. An impressive sight! The contrast in rock types with the dark capping rock in places is stunning. 

Got the cat and was back in Puerto Natales by late afternoon. A good trip!

So that´s what it looks like.