Into Bolivia via the Salar de Uyuni

There had been a storm a few days before I reached San Pedro de Atacama and a lot of snow up in the mountains, making the road into Bolivia impassable. It was clearing up but it was uncertain whether the border crossing would be open the next day for the Salar de Uyuni tours to get going again. I signed up anyway, hoping for the best, then hired a bike again and went for a great bike ride out to Devils Canyon before climbing up, though a tunnel and up onto the ridge line which took me back past the Valle de Muerta. The views out to the volcanoes strung along the horizon, now with a beautiful coating of white, were magnificent.

Devils Canyon

Back in San Pedro that evening I was told the border had opened and the 3 day tour was on. We left early (7am early) but didn't get very far as they'd closed the border until ice on the road had melted. We eventually got off around 10 in a convoy of tour jeeps and a few hours later had officially entered into Bolivia and the vast alien landscape of the alto plano, scattered with volcanoes, mountains and lagoons.

passport control

The first "attraction" on the tour was an area of bubbling mud pools and sulphuric geysers, and shortly after that we were relaxing in a natural thermal bath. Not for too long though. At 4000 odd metres staying in for longer than 20 minutes isn't recommended.

Our next and final stop for the day was a big deep red lagoon with flocks of feeding flamingoes.

We had time to wander around but as sunset approached our driver was keen to head to our nights accommodation. I wanted to at least stay until the sunset but our driver wasn't having any of it. He did however with a wry smile say I could walk back if I wanted and was then slightly taken aback when, delighted by the opportunity, I said yes, great! It wasn't that far (only about an hours walk) and easy enough to find given its the only habitation within walking distance. Matthias (a young Belgian guy) joined me for the hike and we had a good walk back as the sun set and the stars came out.

The rest of my group was made up of 4 friends from Melbourne travelling together: 3 ozzies and an English girl. Very Australian but fun enough for a few days.

Our accommodation was basic. Concrete beds, electricity (from a generator) until 9, and no heating. There was a small stove but they didn't light it for us - the tour group next door to us had a lit stove however so went and joined them for warmth. It was a seriously coooold night and up at 4000 odd metres I didn't sleep too well.

Day 2 we passed through some interesting rock formations, sculpted by the desert winds. and then more lagoons and lots of flamingoes.

 

We spent our second night in a salt hotel. Yep, a hotel made of salt. And quite well made actually, with salt tables, salt chairs, salt beds, all salt. No need to ask for the salt for dinner.

Nearby our hotel was a very interesting burial ground, where bodies had been entombed in tombs of lava rock. The bodies were mainly still intact and thrown into some amusing poses as they gazed out of their graves. I can't remember how old they were, but pretty sure it was in the thousands of years.

Our final day was the salar de Uyuni itself and we were up early to watch the sun rise from cactus island; a genuine island in the salt flat, only lacking in water. The sun rise was a breathtaking sight, with a beautiful change of light across the white expanse of the salt flat, with the giant cacti adding presence and immense shadows.

We took the ubiquitous perspective photos on the salt flat itself and then a few hours more driving got us to Uyuni.

Our last sight was the train graveyard, where all the trains that used to transport minerals and ore from Bolivia to Chile were left to rust.

First impressions of Uyuni were pretty grim; the outskirts a huge expanse of unfinished buildings. The centre was a bit more happening though and we enjoyed a few beers out in the sun before getting on a bus to Potosí.

Back to Chile

I left Argentina on Tues 12th June, and took a 9 hour bus ride up and over the Andes into Chile; an awesome route into the Atacama desert, passing through desolate plains and mountains, salt flats and crossing the border at 5000m.

Collecting salt

We arrived into San Pedro de Atacama at around 5pm. Going for a stroll after settling in the hostel I got a bit of a shock when engulfed by multitudes of tourists and tour companies. I wasn't prepared for how touristy it is but it's only a town of 2000 people but with probably the same number of tourists to match.

Fortunately though there are a few things you can do on your own and after spending the morning sorting out a few chores i hired a bike and pedalled off into the valle de muerta.... Death Valley. The main feature of death valley is a massive sand dune, popular for sand boarding. I had considered doing it but was put off after watching people make the long slog up the dune for a 1 minute ride back down!

Valle de Muerta

After death valley I cycled over to the much bigger Valle de Luna with its impressive ridges and rock formations.
I watched the sun set from the top of a small hill and while the sunset didnt offer much the red glow across the volcanic peaks on the horizon was lovely to see. The cycle back in the dark as the stars came out was great too so i had a quick turn around back in San Pedro and left town again on a star gazing tour. 

Valle de Luna

 

 

Our guide didn't offer too much insight beyond the names of what we were looking at but it was worth it just to be out in the dark to admire the night sky in all its glory. Great star gazing here due to the dry air and clear skies. We had a 12" Dobsonian telescope and looked at various galaxies, clusters (and other starry things!) and then the planets Jupiter and Saturn. All of which were mightily impressive.

Keen to get flying I spurned the rest of the many tours on offer and got on a bus go Iquique the next day.